When shopping for an aviator watch, it’s essential to consider several key features that align with both your style and functional needs. Aviator watches, historically designed to assist pilots with navigation and timing during flights, often include a blend of practical tools and stylistic elements. Whether you’re a pilot, aviation enthusiast, or someone who loves the rugged, classic design of these watches, here’s a comprehensive guide to the features to look for when buying an aviator watch.

1. Legibility and Large Dial

A defining characteristic of aviator watches is their large, easy-to-read dial. The watch face must be clearly legible, even in poor lighting or high-altitude conditions.

• Large Numerals: Look for watches with bold, oversized Arabic numerals or indexes. This helps in reading the time at a glance, which is critical for pilots during flights.
• High Contrast: A high-contrast dial (dark background with light numerals or vice versa) improves visibility in both daylight and nighttime.
• Luminous Hands and Markers: Luminous hands and markers are a must-have feature, allowing you to read the time in low-light or dark conditions, such as in a dim cockpit or during nighttime flights.

Example: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is renowned for its large dial, oversized numerals, and luminous hands, ensuring easy readability.

2. Chronograph Function

A chronograph is a stopwatch feature integrated into the watch that allows you to time specific events, such as fuel consumption, flight durations, or waypoints. Many aviator watches come with chronographs, making them highly functional for timing in-flight procedures.

• Sub-Dials: A chronograph usually includes sub-dials on the watch face, which track seconds, minutes, and sometimes hours, allowing you to measure time precisely.
• Pushers: Chronograph watches have pushers (buttons) on the side of the case, which control the start, stop, and reset functions.

Example: The Breitling Navitimer is famous for its chronograph function, allowing pilots to measure time intervals during flights.

3. Slide Rule Bezel

The slide rule bezel is a classic feature found on many traditional aviator watches. Originally used by pilots for navigation and in-flight calculations, it can still be a handy tool for those who like to engage with traditional flight math or enjoy the heritage aspect of the watch.

• Calculations: With a slide rule bezel, you can perform calculations such as fuel consumption, airspeed, distance, and time. The bezel rotates and interacts with the dial to make these manual calculations.
• Useful for Enthusiasts: While most pilots today rely on digital cockpit instruments, a slide rule bezel remains a desirable feature for those who appreciate the historical functionality of aviation watches.

Example: The Citizen Eco-Drive Nighthawk and the Breitling Navitimer both feature slide rule bezels, providing useful tools for aviation-related calculations.

4. Dual Time Zone / GMT Function

For pilots and frequent travelers, the ability to track multiple time zones is essential. A dual time zone or GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function allows you to monitor two time zones simultaneously—typically local time and UTC (Coordinated Universal Time), which is the global aviation standard.

• 24-Hour Hand: A GMT watch features an additional 24-hour hand, often in a different color, which points to a second time zone on the dial or bezel.
• Rotating Bezel for Time Zone Adjustment: Some GMT watches also feature a rotating bezel, allowing you to quickly adjust and track time across different time zones.

Example: The Rolex GMT-Master II is a classic aviator watch that includes a GMT function, allowing pilots to track multiple time zones effortlessly.

5. Durability and Build Quality

Aviator watches must withstand the rigors of flight, including changes in pressure, temperature, and occasional impact. Therefore, durability and quality materials are essential considerations.

• Stainless Steel or Titanium Case: These materials offer excellent durability, resistance to scratches, and corrosion. Titanium is lighter than stainless steel, which can be beneficial for comfort during long hours of wear.
• Scratch-Resistant Crystal: Look for watches with sapphire crystal, which is highly resistant to scratches, ensuring the dial remains clear and legible over time.
• Water Resistance: Even though aviator watches aren’t necessarily designed for underwater activities, a good level of water resistance (at least 100 meters) is important to protect against moisture, rain, or unexpected exposure to water.

Example: The Seiko Prospex and IWC Pilot’s Watches are known for their robust build quality and use of high-grade materials like stainless steel and sapphire crystal.

6. Automatic vs. Quartz Movement

When selecting an aviator watch, you’ll need to decide between automatic (mechanical) or quartz movement. Both have their advantages, depending on your preferences for tradition, accuracy, and maintenance.

• Automatic (Mechanical) Movement: Automatic watches are powered by the movement of your wrist and offer a traditional feel with intricate craftsmanship. They don’t require a battery, but they may need winding if not worn daily. Automatic watches are prized for their craftsmanship and mechanical elegance but tend to be more expensive.
• Quartz Movement: Quartz watches are powered by a battery and are highly accurate and low-maintenance. They are typically more affordable than automatic watches and can be a good choice if you prefer a reliable, no-fuss option.

Example: The Orient Flight Automatic offers a reliable and affordable automatic movement, while the Citizen Nighthawk provides a durable, low-maintenance quartz option with Eco-Drive technology.

7. Comfortable Strap or Bracelet

Aviator watches should be comfortable to wear for long periods, especially during extended flights or long hours on the ground. The strap or bracelet material plays a vital role in comfort and durability.

• Leather Straps: Classic leather straps offer a timeless look and can be very comfortable. Look for high-quality leather that is soft and breathable.
• Metal Bracelets: Metal bracelets, particularly those made of stainless steel or titanium, provide durability and a solid feel on the wrist. Ensure the bracelet has adjustable links for a perfect fit.
• NATO or Canvas Straps: For a sporty or rugged look, NATO or canvas straps are lightweight and comfortable, suitable for both casual and active wear.

Example: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte features a comfortable canvas strap, while the Tag Heuer Carrera has a robust stainless steel bracelet.

Conclusion

When selecting an aviator watch, consider these essential features that enhance both functionality and style. Each aviator watch has its unique design and purpose, so it’s crucial to find one that resonates with your needs, whether you’re a professional pilot, a collector, or simply appreciate the aviation heritage. By keeping these features in mind, you’ll be well-equipped to choose an aviator watch that meets your expectations for performance and elegance.